I’ve grown leaks in SE MI, which was recently reclassified as 6a, as a spring into summer crop from seeds started indoors. I didn’t have any problems with health or yeild. Haven’t tried them as a fall into winter crop.

Like all things produce, “Leak” is a family with different members being more cold tolerant than others. It looks like 20 °F is the floor, but dropping below freezing can do damage.

I was able to find a post of this image daring back to 2023.

Doesn’t mean it’s not AI, just means it’s a lot less likely.

We have a decent amount of milkweed around our house, but we only see them every once in a while :(

I’ve had two printers: a monoprice branded wanhao i3 plus and a Voron 2.4. The wanhao was pretty heavily modified. I guess any Voron winds up being somewhat modified, but the mods I’ve installed on it have all been quality of life related.

3D printing tends to involve some level of tinkering, but it was nice to shift from the wanhao to the Voron. The Voron is a start it and forget it printer. Even if I wasn’t replacing parts or modifying the wanhao it took a lot more fiddling for things like bed leveling.

Oh, I wasn’t the person who asked about the lens. I was only chiming in to agree on the weight factor.

And yes, agree on actually using the hood for exactly the reason you said. It’s nice to be able to put the good directly against a something like a chain link fence without having to worry about the front element.

Agree on both the weight and ISO fronts. It looks like the 200-800 is 2,050 grams. I use a Tamron 150-500, which weighs in at 1,870 or so grams.

I am vaguely fit in the ‘I worked out nearly 20 years ago and am now a Dad’ kind of way. I can hand hold the lens, and have for the occasional half inning of youth baseball, but I greatly prefer sitting on the ground and using a knee as a makeshift monopod. My personal weight threshold for hand holding seems to be around a kilogram. It’s too bad Sony’s 70-200 2.8 ii plus 2x teleconverter doesn’t hold up to the 150-500 in terms of image quality.

Youth sports tend not to be well shaded, but I still see 1,000+ ISO pretty frequently.

Do get a hood

Does it not come with one?

When Sony launched the e-mount a lot of their top tier glass was co-branded with Sony and Zeiss logos. Example. They’ve been making optics since the 1840s

For any photo, especially photos viewed on your screen, I wouldn’t trust the colors you see on screen to be accurate. The camera does truckery, your screen does trickery, someone may have edited the photo, etc. All in the name of pizzazz.

As for the actual color, I suspect that it will vary some by been species as well as the flowers they’ve visited.

See also: https://www.beesmax.org/insights-research/honey-bees-and-their-multi-coloured-pollen-stores/

Get out there, take a photo, and join in! If you’re fortunate enough to live in an area with flowers odds are there are bees. Once you notice them they tend to be everywhere.

Thanks for the links!

Colorfabb lists products for sale and claims compostability in any environment. I am tempted to buy a spool and give it a go, including composting in my compost pile.

PHA 3DESIGN’s website says their products are not home compostable :(

100% bio-based, blended from PHA and other bio-based materials, industrially compostable.

EcoGenesis’s website spends a lot of time saying “PLA isn’t compostable outside of very specific conditions”, but doesn’t appear to say that their product is more widely compostable. I also didn’t see an obvious place to buy their filament or even really a listing of filaments.

Where do you source your PHA? I looked around a year or so ago, but the options were fairly sparse.

OnePlus still offers this one on some of their phones.

Warping! Others have hit on a lot of this, so I’ll try to be brief.

• warping is due to the plastic shrinking as it cools. This builds tension in the lower layers of the print
• bigger prints are naturally more warp prone
• part shape and aspect ratio also plays a role. Parts with big aspect ratios (eg much wider or longer than the other axis) are more warp prone. Parts with sharp transitions are also more likely to warp
• different filaments are more warp prone than others. PLA is least prone, followed by PETG. ASA/ABD are the most warp prone I’ve printed so far
• fiddling with temps and speeds can help
• make sure you have good bed adhesion (clean bed, good first layer, etc)
• having good bed adhesion will only take you so far. I’ve had prints pull my magnetic bed plate up
• you can try printing a draft shield around your part (think a skirt as tall as your part)
• IMO eclosures are the way to go for warp prone parts. You’ll need to be somewhat careful about chamber temps getting too high (this can cause nozzle clogs for PLA/PETG) or not getting high enough (ASA/ABS will still warp in a cool chamber). My enclosure has a removable lid that I pop for PLA/PETG and has insulation/bedfans/a filter for ASA/ABS

Dish soap is better than alcohol, especially if you’re cleaning the bed in a sink with lots of water to rinse all the accumulated oils off.

There’s also all the mess of slicer and printer settings. It would be interesting to give someone a collection of parts with different nozzle sizes, extrusion widths, pressure advance settings, temp settings, print speeds/accelerations, etc

Interesting project! I will have to give it a look.

sourcing the materials can be a bit of a challenge

Any more details here? I’m guessing the necessary material for electrolytic and what not? Do you know about the boring adjacent stuff like measuring (eg how accurate do the measurements need to be, how precise, etc), disposal, etc?

Not sure, but I would suspect that AI output would likely be very similar to procedural generation output in that it will need some massaging before it can be used as a final asset.

Procedural generation of content in games is by no means a new thing. Even if the end state isn’t completely procedurally generated, odds are a version of the asset was initially and a human touched it up as necessary. When you’re talking about large asset sets (open world and/or large maps, tons of textures, lots of weapons, etc) odds are they weren’t all 100% hand made. Could you imagine making the topology map and placing things like trees in something like RDR2?

That’s not to say all this automation is necessary a good thing. It almost feels like we’re slowly chugging through a second industrial revolution, but this time for white collar workers. I know that I tell myself that I would rather spend my time solving problems vs doing “menial” work and have written a ton of automation to remove menial work from my job. I do wonder if problem solving will become at least somewhat menial in the future.

Check the post title ;)

I am a bit sad that the available LEDs are so cool color temperature wise. I haven’t bought a new light in years (and years and years). As a longtime EC4SW user, I approve of the form factor and the lack of screw on the tail to get the batteries out. The finish also looks interesting.

But that color temperature… Sigh. Will have to ponder for a bit.