Good morning community. This is my first post here.

So this is my bicycle, from year about 2004 or something down there. I would like to make some improvement but it might be too pricey. I would like to put a more modern transmission: now it has a triple chainset 22, 32, 42 - as it was common back then - and a 8-speed rear cogset 11-30. I’d fancy a more recent thing and also a rear disk brake. So it means I should change the whole transmission, put a shorter freehub suitable for the disc, put the right spokes and so on. It’s not urgent, but I’m thinking about it and I’m afraid of the cost of all these things.

Apart from that I’m having a really good time and I’m fond of this bicycle.

Sorry for my roughly translated technical words

  • Diplomjodler@lemmy.world
    12·
    3 days ago

    Quite frankly, I don’t think it’s worth upgrading this bike. If you want to do it right, it’ll cost the same or even more than a new bike.

    • determinist@kbin.earth
      12·
      3 days ago

      I have a 1998 Kona Cinder Cone. It sat in a shed for 7 years and rust destroyed many of the components. I priced replacement parts to get it ready to ride again and I also found a used 2016 Boardman FS Pro on ebay. The used Boardman cost less than the parts for the Kona, and the Boardman was full suspension with excellent parts. I bought the Boardman. It’s been loads of fun.

      I guess what I’m saying is … I agree with you :))

      Boardman FS Pro

  • limelight79@lemmy.world
    9·
    3 days ago

    Disc brakes are the one thing that you really can’t add to a bicycle that wasn’t made with them in mind. (I know there are adapters, but I wouldn’t trust them.)

    Like others said, probably time for a new bike.

    Disc brakes aside, you’d have to upgrade the whole drive train and the wheels to get a modern groupset. Even buying used, you’ll put quite a bit of money into that, even if you do the work yourself. And while you’re at it, you might as well replace the bottom bracket and headset bearings, which aren’t that expensive but are an added cost. You’ll probably need some tools you might not have too.

    Groupsets are ridiculously expensive for the average consumer to buy. The bike manufacturers buy in bulk and pay way less. That’s how they can offer bikes so cheaply.

    • Martj9@sopuli.xyzOP
      5·
      3 days ago

      Yes I forgot to mention that my frame already has the placement for the disc brakes, but the wheel hasn’t. About the rest, I sadly agree

    • Martj9@sopuli.xyzOPEnglish
      2·
      2 days ago

      Thanks, but actually that’s the highest point, the rest of the trip was more or less flat around the lake

  • simbico@lemmy.zip
    5·
    3 days ago

    The most issue you’ll have is with all the different standards. Check these areas:

    • bottom bracket (probably 67mm BSA threaded)
    • rear axle (135mm quick release?)
    • disc brake mounts (I think these changed the most since)

    I’d convert it to a 2x9 setup. Probably mostly used parts. A Hollowtech 2 crank with somethin around 32 / 38 compact chainrings. Buy a complete 9s wheel. For disc brakes anything hydraulic would work as long as its not too powerful, I think 180mm rotors might bend the fork noticeably.

    If you are interested in learning to work on bikes I think this is a cool project. Otherwise a newer used bike is cheaper and less time

    • Martj9@sopuli.xyzOP
      1·
      2 days ago

      I didn’t know there are so many standards to check, I’ve been out of the cycling news for too long. I’ll try to measure all the things you said but at this point the thing is becoming too complicated

  • Valmond@lemmy.world
    3·
    3 days ago

    Is that a bomber fork? 👍🏼 I have a stump jumper from like 98 maybe, so not even a disc brake at all but its totally okay IMO, it’s just a bit more dirty I guess.

    I always rolls on the mid crank (the small one is like walking speed so why bother 😋) and rarely on the big one when zooming about on asphalt.